We woke up early (from what little sleep we accomplished) to more pouring rain. Using the “garage” of the Nomad tent, we were able to pack up all of our gear – keeping it dry, before we packed up the bikes. We dressed in all of our riding gear, mainly in an attempt to stay dry. The rain let up slightly as we began to pack up the tent which was sopping wet.
On the road for what was our earliest departure – not hard to imagine given the conditions. We soldiered on through the cold pouring rain – stay tuned for a similar theme throughout the day.
We grabbed breakfast and warmed up a bit at the Burwash Landing Resort. The closest place for breakfast and hot coffee (good breakfast but the weakest coffee on the planet). The “resort” did have a nice view of the Kluane Lake.
Back on the bikes in the pouring rain, one of the other customers in the restaurant decided to share some of his wisdom for the day with us – 46 degrees outside, which gets quickly categorized as TOO MUCH INFORMATION!! This news should not have been a big surprise to us as through a break in the clouds we could see fresh snow on the mountain peaks all around us. Just a beautiful sight, which we could have enjoyed more if we had brought our heated vests with us and had warm, dry gloves to wear.
We stopped to top off Martha’s tanks in Destruction Bay and continued onto Haines Junction where we would turn south for Haines. The same weather continued to follow us along our route, with the temperature dropping even lower.
 |
| this is NOT what the weather looked like on our way south!! |
 |
| mountains south of Haines Junction |
We fueled up both bikes in Haines Junction as it was the last fuel for 200 km. Welcome back to Canada where gasoline was $5.00 / gallon for premium. More fog and rain on the way to Haines, but we could occasionally catch a glimpse of the incredible landscape surrounding us through a break in the clouds.
Huge mountain peaks with glaciers everywhere. At this point in our journey it feels as though I have exhausted all the appropriate words to describe the beauty all around us. You just have to go see it for yourself!!
During one of our stops at a museum or information center, we read that glaciers hold 70% of the freshwater available worldwide, and if they were all to melt simultaneously, the sea level would rise 231 feet. Anyone for beach front property in Nevada?? We found this to be an incredible statistic.
The temperature dropped to about 40 degrees and at this point some of our “waterproof” gear was starting to give up:
- First Gear pants -> soaked
- Rev’it winter gloves -> soaked
- Aerostitch Combat touring boots with LOTS of waterproofing applied -> soaked
Luckily my KLIM Stow Jacket continued to perform flawlessly to keep my upper body warm and dry. With my legs, hands and feet soaked and cold, the 150 miles to Haines seemed like an eternity. My heated grips were no longer effective either as my gloves were completely waterlogged. LESSON LEARNED: must have outer, waterproof shell for upper AND lower body, as well as real waterproof gloves (perhaps with neoprene?). While Martha’s Olympia airflow gear with its included waterproof liner keep her dry, given the temperature, the “air flow” feature of her jacket was not warm enough given the conditions, for which it was not designed. Her Sidi Discovery Rain boots kept her feet dry but her gloves gave up the ghost to the rain and were as soaked as mine.
As we got close to the U.S. Border, the rain stopped and the sun broke out in all its glory – not a minute too soon. Once through Customs, we switched to our regular DRY riding gloves which enabled us to once again feel our heated grips and thaw out our digits.
Eagles gather by the thousands I the spring and fall just outside Haines to feed on Salmon coming up the river.
 |
| Eagle Cove outside Haines, AK |
After a VERY quick photo stop, we headed straight to town to check into the warm hotel room we had waiting for us – YAHOO! Since we have just an early ferry we knew there was no way to camp the night before and be able to pack up and load the bikes in time, so I had reserved a room at the Captain’s Choice motel, which had a great room overlooking the bay. Once we warmed up we walked the town a bit, grabbed a light late lunch at the Bamboo Room, got provisions for the ferry, some oil for the bikes and found a place for dinner.
Back to the room to do laundry and dry out some of our gear as well as work on our blog.
We made dinner reservations at the restaurant at Fort Seward where we had absolutely amazing food including salmon, halibut and a desert with fresh local cherries. The only disappointment was the absolutely terrible service. The Fort Seward Army base was the first permanent Army base in Alaska and reminded us of the Presidio in San Francisco as it overlooks the bay as well.